Voldam Travel

Boutique inns and buzzing souqs: Uncover the historic coronary heart of Jeddah

The Jeddah Historic District programme will see the restoration of some 600 historic properties for residential, tourism and enterprise functions.


Within the ethereal, high-ceilinged eating room of Beit Johkdar Resort, Jeddah, breakfast is being served. It begins with a basket of heat bread – sesame seed encrusted, cardamon infused and conventional flatbread – with herby butter and black honey.

Subsequent come the entreés, spicy olive tapenade, grilled halloumi with apricot jam, fried greens and a mini loaf of feta-marbled bread. That is adopted by home made falafel with tahini dipping sauce, spiced hummus, foul mudammas beans and shakshuka.

By the point the tiny pancakes, banana bread and recent fruit arrive, I’ve lengthy admitted defeat. I quickly study the exquisitely offered dishes, deferential ready employees and sheer quantity of meals are typical of Saudi hospitality.

Beit Johkdar is certainly one of three historic inns which have simply opened in Jeddah, a metropolis on the Purple Coastline. A number of extra properties in Al Balad – the previous city – are as a result of open within the subsequent few years. All are a part of the Jeddah regeneration undertaking and the broader, formidable Saudi imaginative and prescient for tourism.

As a rustic that solely started providing vacationer visas in 2019, it’s a little bit of a wild card for a vacation – all of the extra so in the event you go to throughout Ramadan, as I did. Right here’s how the nation is present process dramatic change because it opens as much as tourism and how one can dive into its artisanal tradition, belt-busting delicacies and storied hospitality in Jeddah.

Jeddah: An historic metropolis present process a renaissance

Driving from the airport into the center of Jeddah metropolis, you move kilometre after kilometre of residential blocks, flashy shops and illuminated purchasing arcades. However the historic centre – generally known as Al Balad – is what’s drawing vacationers.

The title of this historic metropolis derives from the phrase grandmother, referring to Eve who descended to earth proper on the spot the place the town now stands, as Abeer Abu Suleiman, Saudi Arabia’s first feminine tour information, explains.

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As early as the first century BCE, Jeddah was already a thriving fishing hub and a distinguished cease on buying and selling routes. It additionally flourished because of its function because the gateway to Mecca, welcoming spiritual pilgrims from throughout the globe on their Hajj journeys.

Al Balad has remained the historic coronary heart of this metropolis however, by the late twentieth century, its antiquated houses have been being deserted by households looking for extra trendy and well-equipped homes in newer neighbourhoods.

The world’s fortunes started to alter with its UNESCO designation in 2014. In 2021, a regeneration masterplan was introduced – and royally endorsed – and the Jeddah Historic District programme was launched to revive some 600 historic properties for residential, tourism and enterprise functions.

The buildings are constructed from coral stone, limestone and wooden. Some are many centuries previous and painstaking work has gone into researching and passing on the data of native supplies and craftsmanship.

The homes of Al Balad are well-known for his or her roshan – wood field balconies masking home windows intricately embellished with latticework designs and painted in Tunisian blue and Saudi inexperienced. These multifunctional buildings permit a breeze into rooms, block daylight and as soon as supplied a personal house the place ladies may look out with out being noticed.

Past the buildings, the undertaking goals to regenerate the spirit and vitality of a neighborhood. Within the squares, there are wood benches and video games for kids. Museums just like the Tariq Abdulhakim Music Middle, named after a famend Saudi musician, have opened. In a labyrinth of slender alleys, the collective Zawiya 97 has supplied workshop house for artisans producing modern merchandise utilizing conventional strategies.

Reem Abdulghani demonstrates her personal 3D embroidery approach and her clothes label makes an announcement with the usage of fuchsia and yellow as an alternative of the ever-present black and beige of girls’s outfits. At woodturning workshop ‘Aromat’, 29-year-old Hassan Mohammed sells artisanal hand-crafted bowls, vases, and candlesticks.

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Boutique inns in historic houses: The place to remain in Jeddah

By the top of the undertaking, 34 buildings in Al Balad will home boutique inns. Three are already working – Beit Jokhdar, Beit Al Rayess and Beit Kedwan – all inside strolling distance of one another.

The idea behind the properties is far more than only a place to sleep. The historic residences are named after their earlier house owners and recreate the non-public, individualised expertise akin to being a home visitor. Their descendants shared reminiscences to assist with the restoration.

On arrival, I’m proven to the ‘foyer’ in Beit Johkdar, the grandest of the three properties and a sort of central hub in the mean time. The doorway corridor with its excessive wood beamed ceiling, pale stone flags and Arabic inscriptions in gypsum is lit by a chandelier.

I am poured Arabic espresso – ochre-coloured and infused with cardamom – from a glossy gold-coloured pot whereas Arabic music tinkles softly. I chill out on a luxurious velvet couch because the receptionist does the paperwork someplace out of sight.


At Beit Al Rayess, the structure is extra intimate, with decrease ceilings and archways graced with big ceramic vases. I’ve a sequence of little rooms – entranceway, lavatory, dwelling space, dressing space and bed room. The furnishings are darkish wooden, cream upholstery and loads of vegetation.

Beit Kedwan can solely be rented in its entirety and has two bedrooms. The lavish residence has a lounge with Moorish arched niches and mother-of-pearl inlaid tables and a roof terrace with cushioned seating, lanterns and a cover. The grand important bed room has two massive artistically-faded rugs and a Murano-style chandelier.

What’s it like to go to Jeddah throughout Ramadan?

Travellers might take into account it unwise to go to throughout Ramadan season; it definitely poses challenges like the shortage of meals retailers open in the course of the day. However in the event you may be versatile along with your itinerary and sleep schedule, the Muslim festive interval is joyous to expertise.

Other than transient two to three-hour home windows, outlets, eating places and cafes are closed till late afternoon or night. However the dearth of crowds in the course of the day does current a possibility to take a tour on a golf cart unimpeded and snap some atmospheric images.

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The explanation to go to throughout Ramadan turns into clear round 6pm, when queues kind in entrance of streetside kiosks serving freshly ready conventional meals – strips of beef liver, khubz bread, samosas, a banana and date bake and a fermented yoghurt drink known as sobia.


Individuals from throughout Jeddah and additional afield pile into Al Balad within the night for iftar – the breaking of the quick. Households, teams of associates and {couples} collect at tables set out within the squares beneath timber bedecked with fairy lights. They unpack their kiosk meals from luggage and open takeaway containers in preparation for sundown.

The ambiance is quiet and reflective. The muezzin begins his undulating name that resonates across the piazzas and indicators that it’s time to interrupt the quick. It’s a religious and devotional second however certainly one of neighborhood and heat.

As night fades to nighttime, folks crowd the streets of their finery; abayas are encrusted with gold beads, pearls and embroidery.

There are dozens of ushers with Ramadan-tagged vests to direct the foot visitors and hype up the gang with celebratory shouts. There’s additionally a military of avenue cleaners who appear to look at your elbow miraculously the second you may have empty containers.

At fragrance outlets, employees stand exterior with chalices of burning incense wafting their smoky perfume over passersby in a conventional welcome.


With Abeer, I whereas away the hours peeking into 300-year-old buildings with rooftop stargazing and museums with tasters of Ramadan sweets. We dip into tiny outlets within the metropolis’s 5 souqs the place abayas bulge from racks alongside the partitions; and study in regards to the Mecca pilgrimage on the 600-year-old Al Shafei mosque.

I retire to mattress at 1am, however the Jeddawi keep out for much longer.

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